Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the little bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best exaggeration to locate a leak is to have the engine giving out and warm and subsequently spray lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner regarding each joint in turn. If the engine rev s in the works you ve found your leak.
I did re-check them tho. The master tech did extensive tests upon the expose flow meter and said it was good. once I unplug it and direct the motor, the car runs argumentative and at 850ish. I can and no-one else guess that my extra rebuilt ecu has an issue, or the tps needs to be re-adjusted, or somehow my maf has died in the midst of every this. I don't think the tps has that much direct in the different of rpm though? I think it on your own adjusts it all but 1k..
Hello the TPS does have an effect on switching the car into idle mode correspondingly I'd recommend to create definite the throttle plate is 100% closed and not slightly grounded as soon as carbon. and next acclimatize the TPS as a result that the IDL glue is continuous to the E2 fix considering the throttle is closed, and log on circuit taking into consideration the throttle is just cracked. Don't make miserable virtually any voltages, the IDL entry is the in fact important one.