Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and furthermore every the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best artifice to find a leak is to have the engine paperwork and warm and subsequently vaporizer lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner vis--vis each joint in turn. If the engine rev s going on you ve found your leak.
I did re-check them tho. The master tech did extensive tests on the let breathe flow meter and said it was good. when I unplug it and manage the motor, the car runs harsh and at 850ish. I can isolated guess that my additional rebuilt ecu has an issue, or the tps needs to be re-adjusted, or somehow my maf has died in the midst of every this. I don't think the tps has that much rule in the alternative of rpm though? I think it only adjusts it in this area 1k..
Hello the TPS does have an effect upon switching the car into idle mode appropriately I'd suggest to make clear the throttle plate is 100% closed and not slightly beached behind carbon. and after that adjust the TPS suitably that the IDL glue is continuous to the E2 pin in the same way as the throttle is closed, and log on circuit considering the throttle is just cracked. Don't distress not quite any voltages, the IDL admission is the truly important one.